Incubation of Silkie Chicken Eggs is 21 Days
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Happy Hatching Everyone...!   Wishing you all happy healthy baby silkies...!    
1. Temperature:  Always put thermometer at egg level, remember heat rises.                            Always have extra thermometers/humidity reader on hand to double check.                            Forced Air Temerature:    99.5 degrees.                            Still Incubator:                 101 - 103 degrees                            NOTE:  Too high a temperature causes early hatches...                                         Too low a temperatuare causes late hatches...                            A couple of degrees can make a big difference in your hatch rate.                            Always keep your incubator temperature stablized.  2. Humidity:        Forced Air:                     40%  -  50%   first 18 days                                                                   60% -  65%   last 3 days during hatching lockdown                            Wet Bulb Thermometer:  86 degrees                            To much humidity = Swollen chicks, that are to big to turn in egg and the                                                            possibility of drowning when pipping through air sac.                            To little humidity   = can result in small weak chicks that won’t be big                                                            enough to reach air sac and no energy to hatch.                            Weighing your eggs before and during incubation will help you to be able                            to control you humidity for healthy growing chicks.                            Also make it a habit to check your humidity and temperature often!                                                                                       Please remember to only open incubator when necessary to add water,                            turn eggs, or remove eggs for candling. 3. Location:        Keep incubator away from windows and drafts of too warm or too cold                            and keep out of direct sunlight.                            You want a constant temperature the entire incubation period! 4. Turning          Remember if your turning by hand,  wash your hands first.                           Using a pencil Place an   X  on one side of egg and                                                   Place an  O  on the other side of egg                            If  X side is up you will know to turn them all over to show the O                            when turning, and then the next time all the   X’s will be turned up.                            Turn every couple of hours if you can.... Turn an odd number of times                            per day, so side face down will be different than last night.                            With automatic turners, set the turners to turn eggs every few hours.                            Turning is necessary to keep chicks from sticking to the sides during the                            first 17 to 18 days.  Chicks that are stuck to shell can’t get out...! 5. Ventilation:      Never cover up your ventilation areas or holes to increase humidity!                            Chicks need air in order to hatch and while hatching  they give off                            carbon monoxide which can build up and cause the chicks to die.                            Use New sponges or dishes to up your humidity.   We actually use a                            humidifier and a shower curtain around the area during lockdown                            and hatching.   It helps immensely to keep humidity up.                            Please don’t open door or top of incubator in lock down,  the humidity                            and temperature drop very quickly and can result in shrink wrapped                            babies, unable to get air or get out of the egg.  6. Flooring:         Consider getting some cloth cabinet liner for your flooring area                            for hatching chicks.   It helps to prevent splay leg or sprattle leg                            because its NOT a slippery surface,                            Be watchful with mesh wiring as they can get their little toe nails                            caught up in mesh holes which can cause dislocation of the hock                            from them trying to pull their leg out of the hole.                                                         Newborn chicks need non slippery surfaces to walk on.                         
                       Start up your incubator 2 days before setting your silkie hatching eggs,                   this will give you time to check and balance out your temperature and humidity.                             Keep your hatching eggs at about 55-65 degrees, until incubation.
One of  the best incubation for hatching silkie chicken eggs is of coarse a silkie hen!  Silkie hens are best known for being great broody chickens for hatching out all kinds of eggs you put under them!  Always make sure to disinfect your incubators before and after use, and keep your hands clean at all times when handling fragile hatching eggs.   There’s nothing like the spread of bacteria, especially in a humid invironment.  Bacteria can cause your chicks to be deformed, have early death rings and make your eggs rot and explode, possibly contaminating all your other eggs!  We usually disguard any eggs that show no signs of formation by the 7th day, in our experience all our silkie chicken eggs started forming all together, by day 5. We are talking about silkie chicken hatching eggs that are white to light brown coloring and easy to see inside when candling, darker colored eggs are more difficult to see inside the egg. Incubation for silkie chicken eggs is 21 days, ....  If you put your eggs in on a Monday, they will most likely hatch out on a Monday.  Do not count the day you set your eggs,  count from the day you set your eggs. 1.Candle your silkie eggs on arrival, fix cracks and  check for detached air sacs. 2. Let you silkie eggs come to room temperature, at least 8 hours before setting. 3. Set eggs in egg carton, with bottoms cut out,      LARGE END UP  ....  SMALL END FACING DOWN 4. Do not wash eggs, if necessary use a disinfectant egg wipe.  Egg’s have a natural coating     to keep out bacteria that you don’t want to wash off.  You also don’t want to clog up the     pores of the egg which are used for getting oxygen inside the egg. 5. Odd shaped eggs do not usually perform well.  We don’t incubate odd shapped eggs. 6. Egg’s with broken air sac’s or cells, should not be turned for 3 or 4 days in order to     allow the air sac a chance to try and reconnect itself.... 7. Cracked eggs with hairline cracks can sometimes be fixed with a thin layer of candle     wax or nail polish.   (To each his own on as to try to save these eggs!) 8. Watery, sloshy looking eggs with alot of movement, don’t usually form...      You can try to set without turning, and no humidity, but we have never had any luck. 9. Don’t open incubator any more than necessary.  And remember to wash your hands...!  
We candle on day 4 or 5, looking for that little red dot that looks like a tiny red spider with long red skinny legs...  Hatching eggs is very exciting,  great for kids and adults the same and is a true to life learning experience.   When those little silkie chicks hatch out, there isn’t anything cuter...!    Be very careful,  it can become an addiction...!                        That’s it for now on incubating silkie chicken hatching eggs...!                Coming Soon...!    The Brooder for your chicks, if you don’t have a hen...!
10. Stop turning eggs on day 17 or 18.   We found that day 17 seem to cause more pips at       the same time and more hatching at the same time...       When your handling the eggs, especially right before lock down, try not to turn the egg...!       Those little babies are trying to get into possition and your turning them might just       disrupt that stage of hatching and cause that little silkie baby to get confused. 11. Allow chicks to dry off for several hours in incubator before moving to your brooder.       Chicks don’t need food or water for 48 hours, but we always give them food and water       With marbles or pebbles in the waterer, to prevent drowning as soon as they are moved       to the brooder.  Chicks catch on very quickly, a little dip or two of the beak into the waterer       and they are smart enough to figure out where to get a drink...!   Then tap on the feeder       or the floor area where you put the food and they soon figure out where to get their food...!      
Without Roosters there would be No Cute Chicks...!